5 rad posts you should have already read

  1. climbers getting shot at, because falling off a mountain to my death isn’t thrill enough?               

no but really? climbers being shot at in little cottonwood canyon? ya because taking a gnarly fall and trusting my chatty belayer to catch me didn’t make this sport scare the heck out of me already. thank you strangers in the green sudan. 

it’s insane that 7 climbers could get shot at for no obvious reason and the shooters could just drive off.  NEWS ARTICLE

the next time i climbed logan canyon i decided to hike up the trail few extra miles and i felt blessed that as i was up on a wall all i had to worry about was nailing a heal hook on the crux and not getting shot at by strangers.

  2. time to let ourselves be the newbie who isn’t good a climbing without the excuses

 semi-rad

i meet you almost every time i climb at the gym. yes you who struggles on a v2 and tells me not to bother on it, “it’s impossible.” i’ve been you, and i bet i’ll really like you in a couple weeks once we’ve bonded over our mutual love of trevor halls music playing in the background and then there was those two times you offered to belay me when my partner was late. but today is only your second time climbing and let’s face, it you’re not very good.

THIS IS OK! it’s ok that you’re not a 19 year old girl who can climb a 5.15 (margo hayes you beautiful creature you’re my hero). and it’s ok you haven’t quit your job to live at the bottom of yosemite to climb 23 hours a day while serving on dog food. but its time to let ourselves suck without telling the short girl it’s because “you weigh less” and the tall guy “you have a longer reach”.

the thing is, nobody hates the newbie at the gym who keeps trying and usually falling while looking really awkward.  we hate the new guy who talks about how he went climbing with his brother in law once and is pretty much the next alex honnold now, but won’t try any of the routes. and we don’t care if the only technical term you know is “send it” and your shoes are purple evolves.

i actually really like you, because you remind me that even though i still get jack-rabbit leg on a 5.10 and i feel super amateur 99 percent of the time i climb, i’ve still made a lot of progress, and so will you.

3. and here’s what you’ll be blowing your paychecks on this year

  • edelrid ohm – this little puppy is numero uno on my 100lb-selfs christmas list.Ohm Oasis Belay and Rappel Device Edelrid

for me the only thing scarier than a lead fall, is belaying a lead fall. i know i’ll get whipped up the wall to the first bolt and all i can do is pray my climber won’t hate me forever because of it.  but this assisted-breaking resister is a game changer.

you set it up in place of your quick draw at the first bolt. “in the event of a fall, the ohm increases the amount of rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty.” it also highly-reduces the risk of taking an early grounder!

 

 

  •       petzl grigri+ – i’ve been asking myself for months why i haven’t invested in a grigri yet and it was definitely a blessing because now that the + is out!

GT_Climbing_Petzl_GRIGRI+

this new design incorporates something they’re calling anti-panic technology (so great for teaching unpredictable new climbing friends). basically it can tell if the release handle is pulled on too hard and will cause the lowering to stop.

it’s lighter and cheaper and they’ve added a new protective plate to stop it from getting worn down like on the original grigris.

 

  •      black diamond half dome helmet – yay for designers who are thinking of us women who’ve ripped our hair out in an atc because we couldn’t put it in a pony tail while still wearing a helmet! this new shell design is pony tail friendly and there’s some other cool features like head lamp clips and stuff, but really i’m just excited for my hair. 620208_W_Half_Dome_CSPN

 

4.  a short list of every climber you’ve ever met

semi-rad’s 10 climbing personality types identified

  1. couch crushers (aka naturals) – they’re up there with those born into the royal family, lottery winners, and people who tan instead of get sunburnt. they’re lucky.  if you can go 6 months without climbing, walk into a gym and finish a project the rest of us have been working on since it was set, you’re a couch crusher.
  2. elites – “they band together and share stories of hard climbs, secret areas, and the injuries that keep them from reaching their full potential.”
  3. high rollers – ya they climb but they really like spending money on climbing. they invest in newest apparel, gear, magazines and of course, start up gyms.
  4. ike’s – the “i know everythings.” they know all the beta, diets, and climbers you could imagine but they’re probably pretty average when it comes do doing it themselves.
  5. original climbing gangstas (ogc’s) – they’ve been climbing since before it was an olympic sport and they don’t want to hear about any up and coming gear or “new crags” because they’ve probably already climbed there and the old gear works great.
  6. purists – they know what climbing is best and all others are trash.
  7. self-worthers – climbing addicts who base their self worth on how hard the climb is? yep sounds about right. they make excuses when they can’t climb it and they’re on a total high when they can.
  8. soul climbers (aka unicorns) – if you’re a soul climber and you’re reading this please dm me immediately and teach me your ways of climbing with no more purpose than to be closer to the heavens. do i need to do more yoga? how do i get your zen?
  9. trainers – do they even like climbing or are they just doing it to get even bigger pecks? is it even possible to get bigger pecks than that? admit it you think protein shakes are gross.
  10. widgeteers – they’ve read about and own every piece of climbing gear on the black diamonds website. who needs to climb when you can just buy more gear?

5. a friendly reminder on safe falling technique

  1. while climbing DO NOT let the rope wrap/run around/behind your leg(s), when you fall you will flip upside down! always know where the rope is!
  2. DO NOT kick/push off the wall, you will only pendulum back into it harder!
  3. always know where on the route you are; have you climbed above a roof and not placed any gear yet? are you going to take an awkward swing? are you going to hit the deck?

 

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